| The observant reader
will have noticed: the location in the title bar of this dispatch
reads "Oamaru, New Zealand". Hmm, that’s odd,
is probably the reader’s first thought, I thought the
guys are on the Snares since the 25th…? Well, obviously
not. And this is why…
Tuesday morning. My alarm clock was set to 4.30am. That way I'd
have time to check my email, pack the rest of my stuff and have
a coffee before Dave and I would leave for Dunedin and Invercargill
at around 5.30M. But not the alarm clock ended my short night's
sleep. It was the banging of Dave's bedroom door and his flying
footsteps into the bathroom, that woke me up. I squinted at the
clock, it was 4:25am - oh... golden five minutes left; I thought
and turned around once more. Suddenly a loud banging on my door:
"Get up, Thomas! We've overslept!"
Huh? I sat up, grabbed the alarm clock and was stunned in horror:
the bloody alarm clock stopped working five minutes before the alarm
- the battery died. Only now I realized that it was light outside.
Now it was me how went flying into the bathroom. While I hectically
started to pack my stuff I heard Dave moan in my back: "Heck!
I've set my alarm to 4.30 PM !"
Only one and a half hour behind our schedule, we hit the road.
In Dunedin, Melanie and Des - another PhD student, who volunteered
as a driver - had already finished packing all our groceries and
equipment into the van and the attached trailer. Theoretically,
we could have started almost immediately - if it was not for the
annoying notice I found in my pigeon hole in the department. Last
week, I ordered a copy of an identification key for krill species
of the Southern Ocean and the guys at the library promised I would
get a copy no later than Friday. Well, it wasn't there on Friday,
so I assumed it must be there by Tuesday. It wasn't. Instead I found
a notice saying, that my copy is held at the science library waiting
for me to be picked up. Great! I glanced at my watch. 8am. The library
wouldn't open until 8.30am. Perfect! Mel and Des headed off while
Dave and I stayed behind, looking at our watches, observing the
seconds dribble slowly towards 8.30.
On 8.30 sharp I sprinted into the sciences library, ready to pick
up my copy of the identification key and to bugger off. Of course,
it wasn't that way. The librarian handed me an age-old booklet with
a big bright yellow sticker on it saying "NOT FOR LOAN".
What??? I only wanted a copy in the first place. As I opened the
booklet some 2 meters of folded pages with tiny drawings of the
different specimens of Krill dropped towards me. Oh great! How am
I supposed to copy that? Aw heck, has to be done, I thought and
jogged towards the photocopiers. I swiped my students ID through
the copier's slot. It greeted me cheerfully, telling me that I had
only 20 copies left on my account. Aw, heck... I started copying
the booklet anyway. And of course, during the first folded page
I ran out of copies. I left everything where it was, and ran off
to the copy card charger. I grabbed my wallet just to realize that
apart from a few coins there was no money to charge my card with.
Awww... I started fumbling with the coins and slowly but surely
my copy account grew to another 20 extra copies. That was not sufficient,
of course. Awwww!!! In the end I had to beg for 20 cents and finally
the librarian had mercy. After a 20 minutes copy ordeal I had a
complete jigsaw copy of the identification key...
Finally, we got away. It was a bit past nine; at eleven we'd have
to attend a meeting with the guys from DOC Southland in Invercargill.
As we travelled south, the weather worsened. We left Oamaru with
crystal clear skies and a bright sun, we arrived in Invercargill
with dark grey clouds and pouring rain. Not the best conditions
for a boat trip to an subantarctic island.
We stepped into the DOC's head office at 11.20am - Mel and Des
were already there. Not long afterwards we had our meeting with
Pete and Jeremy, the rangers responsible for the southern islands.
The meeting was a tough procedure. The whole negotiating process
until we finally got our permission for work on the Snares was a
rough road for all parties to travel. In the end our permission
was granted although Pete and Jeremy objected. In the end they had
to follow orders from above, rather than acting upon their own opinions.
Therefore, it was understandable that both weren't too favourable
towards our project - and to be honest, I can't blame them for that.
In the end of the meeting, everyone had a sour expression in their
faces. Overall, our activities on the Snares are strictly limited.
We are not allowed to move on the island apart from the routes hut/toilet
and hut/working colony - which in total amounts to, say, 300 metres...
for 7 weeks. Yahoo. Well, I think have to make the best of it.
No coffee break after the meeting. We headed straight to the DOC's
quarantine centre. Every piece of our equipment was examined very
closely for the slightest sign of dirt, seeds or insects. While
Dave took care of overseeing the whole quarantine procedure, Melanie
and I left for the nearest supermarket to buy all the perishable
groceries we wanted to take with us. I generally am no fan of shopping.
And by now, I know that Shopping-things-for-a-2-month-stay-on-a-remote-island
isn't my favourite activity either. And we only had to buy fresh
stuff... we already bought all the other basic stuff in an 3 hour
orgy last Friday. In pouring rain and freezing temperatures we finally
loaded all the cabbages, banana bunches and tomato bags into the
van and returned to the quarantine centre. There we were greeted
by Dave who had an expression on his face that almost made me want
to run away. Apparently the quarantine check wasn't a smooth procedure
after all. In fact, most of our rodent proof containers did not
match the DOC's standard of cleanliness, so that Dave had to withstand
some telling-off from his colleague. The icing on the cake was unfortunately
my backpack: in the sleeping bag compartment they found an inch
of Chilean dust - a leftover from my recent visit to Ursula's Humboldt
penguin project on Isla Choros. And not only that! Furthermore,
my bush shirt was interlarded with dried grass seeds; Dave ended
up picking all the seeds from the fabric in an endless procedure!
All in all, it would be an understatement to describe Dave's mood
as "bad tempered" when we got back to the centre.
The day reached it's utter climax when we called the Foveaux Ferry
to inquire about the chances of getting to the Snares the next day.
"No way mate!", rumbled Alan, our Skipper at the other
end of the phone. "We got some heavy seas between Bluff and
Stewart Island - I don't even want to imagine what the conditions
are like south of Stewart Island. Call back tomorrow morning. Maybe
we know more by then." Glumly we stayed the night in Invercargill
just to receive the expected message form Alan - "Not before
Saturday..."
Well, up until today, the weather's definitely not on our side.
The overall pattern of the pressure zones over the Tasman Sea and
the West pacific is less than promising, the subantarctic region
experiences some heavy winds of up to 100km/h. It's just not possible...
Anyway, we'll talk to Alan tomorrow... with a lot of luck we might
get to the Snares on Saturday. Until then it's back to the waiting
game...
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